2020. 2. 12. 05:38ㆍ카테고리 없음
There are several options for gauge placement. A-pillar pods, 'mickey mouse' pods over the steering column and gauge kits for the sunglass holder area in the center console. I didn't like the A-pillar method due to the airbags located in the A-pillar. I din't like the 'mickey mouse' pods since they blocked some of the stock gauge cluster.
The sunglass holder area was out since I have a touchscreen installed in that area and I didn't like that viewing angle anyway. Based on those facts, I chose to go the A/C vent route. The boost and oil pressure gauges will be installed in the center vent, while the A/F ratio gauge will be installed in the driver side vent.
I installed the boost sensor close to the fire wall on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I chose this location since it allowed access to the vacuum tap point while keeping the length of rubber hose as short as possible in accordance with the boost sender install instructions. The first picture shows the tap point, which is the vacuum line located at the end of the fuel rail, seen below the plastic 'T' tap. This is also the same tap point for the supercharger kit as well. Two of these T's were actually used, one with the S/C kit and one with the boost gauge. Even though this point was tapped twice, the gauge still appeared to read normal. The second picture shows the actual sender installed (circled).
Wideband O2 Kit
Getting to one of the pre-cat O2 sensors is a serious PITA! You have two options, come in from the top or from the bottom. Going from the bottom (which is what the Bentley Manual procedure recommends) requires removal of suspension components. Going in from the top requires removal of the heat shield on the headers, and bending back the portion of the heat shield on the frame rail.
I chose the latter method. The above pictures show the stock O2 sensor both installed and after it was removed.
This sensor is designated as Sensor 1 Bank 1, which is the easiest one to get to from the top. For those of you who don't know, this car has 4 O2 sensors, 2 pre-cat sensors and 2 post cat sensors. For accurate A/F ratio readings, you want the O2 sensor installed before the cat. With the old one out, you can now install the new wideband sensor. Moving to the ECU box, unplug the harness from the ECU with the O2 sensor wires (first one from the right end).
It will have several yellow wires going into it. You will be tapping into pin #14. Once you find pin #14 (all of the pins on the harness are labeled), remove the harness from the harness casing, it will slide out.
Plx Wideband O2 Install Chromecast
This will give you more slack to work with when tapping into the wire. See the pictures above. Tap the grey wire (narrow band signal) from the PLX controller to the yellow wire in pin #14. DO NOT cut the yellow wire. By not cutting the yellow wire you will be able to go back to stock later if you choose (all you will have to do is cut the PLX wire). I soldered all of these connections. For power and ground you will tap wires in the ECU harness on the far left (not pictured) For power (switched 12V) tap pin #8 (red/white/yellow) and for ground, pin #6 (brown).
For accurate A/F readings, the controller needs to be powered, and more importantly grounded, as close as possible to the ECU. To minimize noise affecting the A/F signal going to the ECU, you must install a noise canceling capacitor (included with the kit). The capacitor is installed between the O2 narrowband signal wire from the PLX unit and the ground wire. The pictures above show how I did it, including covering it using some cardboard and electrical tape. Now you have to decide what to do with your stock O2 sensor. In order to prevent getting a CEL for a failed heater circuit, you can either make your own heater circuit using two 10 watt resistors (not very easy since they will get hot) or you can use the heating elements inside the stock O2 sensor.
I chose the second method. Plug the stock O2 sensor back into the stock harness then cut the signal wires (black and grey) going to the stock sensor.
Plx Wideband O2 Install Chromebook
This way, the ECU will still see a valid heater circuit. I temporarily mounted the stock sensor in the well on the passenger side of the engine compartment.
I plan to fabricate a bracket using an O2 sensor bung to mount it permanently. Make sure it does not touch anything since it does get hot. Before you button everything up, turn on the car to verify everything is working properly. I actually did this before I soldered all of the wires too.
Once everything is verified working, tidy up the ECU box and put everything back together. The other pictures are of the custom display. It started life as stock driver side vent.
The display was de-soldered from the PLX unit circuit board, extended, and placed inside the vent. Some vent movement was lost, but it is still able to blow plenty of air on the driver if needed. A word on performance, good and bad. The good is that I now have a wideband display and the car functions properly with the narrow band signal now being provided by the PLX unit. The bad is that every so often I do get an O2 sensor related CEL. Basically, the PLX unit does not switch between lean & rich as fast as the ECU expects.
As a result, a CEL is thrown because the ECU thinks the O2 sensor is going bad, when in actuality it is fine. This is no big deal since it does not affect the performance of the car. I have an OBDII scan tool installed in the car so I can see and clear the code very easy. The ECU monitors this aspect of the O2 sensor because it could be an indication that the O2 sensor is going bad (which I know is not the case in my install).
Of note, the Innovate LC-1 has the ability to 'adjust' it's signal so if you decide to use that unit to replace a stock sensor, you should be able to avoid this fault (I have not personally verified this though). The best solution is to retain the stock O2 sensor and functionality and install the wideband sensor in a separate 'bung'. While I didn't think it was initially possible, I was able to find room to add an additional bung for the wideband sensor (I had a shop do it for me). This allowed the OEM sensor to go back into its original location. The wideband sensor is still only reading one bank, but that is good enough for just monitoring the overall AFR for now. My ultimate goal is to install aftermarket headers at some point in the future, thus allowing me to monitor both banks more easily.